People are attracted to birds because of their beauty, but along with this, the majority of birds require a lot of attention and special care.

• What is covered in the guide is the size, level of care, attention, lifespan and some other general information to help you make an informed decision before purchasing.
• Some birds, such as finches, are happy just being in groups with their own kind.
• Others, such as most parrots, require a lot of one-on-one human companionship.
  • Without this, they can become destructive and depressed.
• If they are going to be handled, most birds do better if they are hand fed and need early socialization.
• The larger the bird, the bigger the expense and mess.

Bigger cages are always better.

• In the guide I list the minimum cage size.
• Galvanized (watch for zinc-see Toxins below) metal cages are a better choice, as wood is harder to clean.
  • Most birds also tend to chew and wood may not stand up to their abuse.
  • Make sure it is electroplated and not painted, as this chips when chewed on.
• Watch the dimensions.
  • Birds like finches fly horizontally, while parrots also like to climb.
  • The cage must also provide room for the long feathers on some birds.
• The perches must be spaced to suit the species you are housing.
  • Depending on the bird’s needs the perch can be made of wood, rope, acrylic, and/or PVC.
  • Also provide a mineral perch for nails and beak.
• Don’t forget the toys!!! A bored bird is a destructive bird.
  • Find safe toys that are of appropriate size for your friend.
  • Also, especially with most parrots, make sure you have some that are challenging.
  • Rotate them often and find a variety of different types.
• Make sure the cage is located away from drafts, and for the most part in the main part of your house.
• This is needed for socialization.
  • If you are going to keep a bird away from the ‘action’ for most of the day and night, stay away from most parrots.
  • They need human interaction and a lot of attention.
• Try not to place the cage near the kitchen (see toxins below).

Unfortunately their are many potential hazards to birds both in and out of the cage – here are a few:

ZINC AND LEAD:

• Before purchasing your cage watch the coating and zinc levels in the metal.
• Also look for cages that do not have lead-based paint.

TOYS:

• The toys you get your bird should be appropriate for their size.
• Always check the toys to make sure they are not dismantled, as bells and lead weights in toys can be easily digested.
• Also be careful of loose strings that can be ingested.

FOOD:

• Food should clean and fresh and not be left in the cage for long periods of time.
• Fungus and molds can be toxic to birds.
• Other foods are avocados, chocolate, caffeine, celery (strings), apple seed, mushrooms, raw dried beans, onions, alcohol, and coffee.
• Also over supplementation of vitamins, including D3, calcium and Aspirin.

FUMES:

• Any fumes can be toxic.
• Here are some to consider:
  • Scented candles, potpourri, Carbon monoxide, cooking gas, Teflon or PTFE coated pans (above 530 degrees), smoke from burnt foods, cigarette/cigar smoke, paint/thinner fumes, aerosol sprays, hair dye fumes, and non-stick plastic sprays.
• Basically, remove bird if you intend to use any sprays, paint, cook or smoke.

HOUSEHOLD DANGERS:

• Closed windows and mirrors:
  • Birds can fly into the window.
  • Ceiling fans
  • Open windows
  • Other Pets:
    • Make sure you always supervise your bird while with other animals.
  • Open water containers
  • Loud noises-can be stressful to birds
  • Poisonous plants
  • Electrical cords – chew on cords
  • Gun powder
  • Cleaning agents

VOCAL:

• Whistling, Singing, Talking:
  • Happy bird!
• Chattering: Soft or Loud.
  • Can mean bird is learning to talk, contentment or trying to get your attention.
• Purring: Growl type noise.
  • Sign of contentment or annoyance.
  • Check the body language that goes with it.
• Tongue clicking:
  • May be asking to get picked up or petted.
  • It also may be a sign of self entertainment, especially if they are alone.
• Growling:
  • Only heard in some birds, but is an aggressive vocalization.
  • Either something is annoying them or they do not want to be touched/held.

EYES:

• A bird is capable of controlling their irises by enlarging or or shrinking their pupils, which is a display called flashing or pinning.
• They may do this when they are interested in something; happy, frightened or aggressive.
• Look at the body language that goes along with this.

WINGS:

• Wing Flapping:
  • Exercise, attention getter, happiness, cooling off, or stretching.
• Wing Flipping:
  • Aligning their wings, pain or angry.
  • With hunching and head bobbing this is an attention getter (usually wants food).
• Wing Drooping:
  • May be a sign of illness in older birds.
  • Can also be letting them rest after bathing or physical activity.
  • In young birds this may be before they learn to fold and tuck wings.

FEATHERS:

• Ruffled Feathers:
  • Done during preening to remove dirt or feather dust.
  • The bird may also be cold or to relieve tension.
  • If they remain fluffed this could be a sign of illness.
• Crest Position:
  • Obviously only in birds, like cockatoos, that have crests.
  • Crest held back- relaxed.
  • Lifting the crest-excitement.
  • Crest very high: Excitement or aggression.
  • Flat with crouching and hissing: Aggression or alarm.
  • Quivering: Frightened, overly excited or breeding behavior.

TAIL:

• Tail wagging:
  • Happy to see you (like dog tail wagging) or prior to defecating.
• Tail bobbing:
  • After exercise – catching their breath.
  • Bobbing and breathing hard for no reason – respiratory distress or infection.
• Tail fanning:
  • Show of birds strength seen with other behaviors.
  • A sign of aggression or anger.

FEET AND LEGS:

• Feet tapping:
  • Sign of dominance in some birds when they feel their territory is threatened.
• Weak legs:
  • A resistive behavior when they do not want to go back into their cage and want to be held longer.
  • They ‘suddenly’ can’t stand.
• Hanging upside down:
  • Normal happy behavior.
• Scratching on the cage bottom:
  • May be done in species that usually forage (like chickens).

HEAD AND BEAK:

• Beak Grinding:
  • Contentment, usually prior to falling asleep or after eating.
• Clicking:
  • Click once with eye pinning- if unthreatened they are greeting you or acknowledging something.
  • Clicking several times is a warning (do not handle).
• Wiping:
  • After eating to keep the beak clean or marking territory.
• Biting:
  • Observe other behaviors for the reason.
  • Can be anger, fearful or territorial.
  • A bird is prepared to bite if it has their beak open, crouched and hissing.
• Chewing:
  • Conditioning beaks and entertainment.
• Regurgitating:
  • If the bird pins their eyes, stretches out their neck, bobs their head and regurgitates, it is actually a sign of affection.
• Mouthing or jousting:
  • Birds will grab either others beaks and wrestle.
  • Playful behavior.
• Head Shaking:
  • In African Grey’s – reason not known.
• Head Bobbing:
  • They want attention.

POSTURES:

• Relaxed:
  • The bird is happy if they have a relaxed both with head and body at attention.
• Territorial:
  • The bird is letting you know this is their territory if their head and body are at attention, body rigid and feathers flared.
• Bowing:
  • Wants to be petted or scratched if the crouching with head tipped down towards you (possibly with head bobbing)
• Wants Attention:
  • Trying to get your attention (or potential mate) if the head is down, relaxed body and wings raised.
• Aggression:
  • Giving warning if crouching, head down, eyes pinned, flared tail feathers, ruffled feathers, ridgid body weaving from side to side.
  • If accompanied by walking towards you, get out of the way!!
  • May also be with hissing and raised crest.
• Lying on back or Belly up:
  • May feel their life is at risk when accompanied by flashing, open beak and rigidity.
  • Some birds just lye on their back for no reason and some sleep that way.
• Elimination:
  • Prior to defecating-a few steps back, crouch and lift tail.

• Most birds survive on a diet of commercial pellets, seeds, nuts, fruits and vegetables.
• Each species may vary in needs, so I will not get into this too much.
• Check with the breeder regarding the best diet for your bird.
• You also may want to check with a vet that specializes in birds regarding the need for vitamin and mineral supplements.
• Also think twice about supplying grit to your bird.
  • It has been found that most birds do not need it, and the ones that do, need a small quantity, such as finches.
• A variety of bugs can also be added to your bird’s diet.
• Keep in mind that Lories and Lorikeets require a nectar diet that has to be changed several times a day.
  • Their diet also makes for a messier cage (what goes in, must come out-and in liquid form)

Birds are good at masking illnesses and injuries. Things to look for in a sick bird are:

• Runny discolored stools
• Feather plucking
• Swollen beak
• Red or swollen eyes
• Favoring a foot
• Loss of Appetite
• Wheezing or coughing
• Eye or nasal discharge

Some bird diseases can make you sick, especially in the elderly or people with low immune systems-these include:

• Chlamydiosis or Psittacosis – causes flu like symptoms, and if left untreated can cause kidney and liver damage or meningitis.
  • Some birds are just carriers.
  • In others Psittacosis causes loss of appetite, diarrhea, depression and difficulty breathing.
  • Chlamydiosis is transmitted through feces
• Avian Tuberculosis – Can be transmitted to humans through feces of infected birds.
  • In humans the symptoms are swollen lymph nodes and respiratory infection.
  • Birds have mild symptoms of weight loss with good appetite, dull feather coloring, anemia, increased urination, and diarrhea.
• Histoplasmosis – Can be transmitted by inhaling fungal spores that grows on bird feces causing respiratory infections in humans.
• Cryptococcus – Transmitted by inhaling dust from dried droppings causing infections that can lead to meningitis, encephalitis and respiratory problems.

Some illness in birds:

• Psittacine Beak and Feather Disease (PBFD) – viral that includes abnormalities of beak and feathers.
• Pacheco’s parrot disease – herpes virus – unfortunately the first symptom is usually death – there is a vaccine available.
• Avian polyomavirus – viral infection includes depression, bleeding, weight loss, difficulty breathing
• Proventricular dilation disease – viral infection that causes ‘wasting away’.
• Psittocosis – Bacterial – see above
• Aspergillosis and Candidiasis – fungal and mold caused by poor hygiene – keeping a clean cage will prevent these disorders.