• Before considering any reptile, be aware that most reptiles require live food.

  • Some snakes will eat frozen mice that must be thawed, but don’t buy a snake depending on that.

  • Some reptiles eat daily, some several times a week and some several times a month.

• Small children should always be supervised when handling any reptile.

  • Even the most docile corn snake can bite.

• Some reptiles, such as the tegu, can be food aggressive.

  • In other words, they will bite the hand that feeds.

• Wash your hands after handling any reptile.

  • Reptiles can be the source of Salmonella poisoning.

• Know the size your pet will get to as an adult.

  • Zoos are overwhelmed and most will not take the lizard or snake who outgrows its environment.

    • Consider that your tegu that you bought at 2-4 inches will grow to an adult size of 2-4 feet or your reticulated python that at first fit into a 20-40 gallon tank and ate mice now requires his own ‘room’ and is eating rabbits and chickens as a snack.

  • Please consult with a reputable breeder or pet store that will give you information about the pet you pick.

DO YOUR RESEARCH and never buy any animal on a whim.

• As with most reptiles, look for ones that are captive born.
• Wild caught can harbor parasites and mites that can be difficult to get rid of.

Level of Care:

Beg = Beginner

Inter = Intermediate

Adv = Advanced.

TANK:

• Like lizards, some species of snakes require full spectrum UVA/UVB lighting, as well as a gradient temperature with a basking area about 10 degrees higher.
  • They may also require a heating pad under the tank.
  • NEVER USE A HEAT ROCK- this can seriously injure or kill a snake.
• Provide a place for the snake to hide, as well as sturdy ledges or branches for climbing.
• Although snakes can be arboreal, ground or burrowing, most snakes will climb.
• For arboreal snakes, such as the emerald boa, it is important to have tall strong plants for them to attack their prey from above.
• Also provide a bowl of water for drinking and/or soaking.
  • Change the water frequently, as some snakes will defecate in the water.

FOOD:

• Snakes eat a variety of foods from crickets to fish to rodents to rabbits.
• BE PREPARED to feed your snake live food.
  • Although some may eat frozen mice if introduced early on, most will only eat live food.
• Snakes have a forked tongue they use to pick up odors from the air, as well as heat sensing organs.
  • They also ‘see’ very well, although they have no ears.
• Frozen mice should be thawed under hot water before feeding (never microwave) .
  • If your snake has not eaten the live prey given to them within a few hours, remove it from the tank.
    • Rodents will bite and can fatally attack snakes.

FIRST DAY & HANDLING:

After bringing your new snake home, do not handle for at least 24-48 hours to let him get used to his new environment.

• • Never pick up a snake towards the head, come from behind.
  • Some snakes can be picked up behind the head if they are not docile, but do not pick up most arboreal snakes this way.
    • They have thinner necks that can be damaged.
  • Depending on the size of the snake either support the remainder of the body with your other arm or use a snake stick/hook.
  • Do not handle a snake after he has eaten.
    • Not only is there a chance he will mistake you for food, but also he needs time to digest.
  • If possible, feed your snake outside of the tank.
    • This will deter him from thinking you are food, as well as prevent the possibility of getting the shavings (if you use them) lodged in their throat.

Boidae and Pythonidae:  Boas and Pythons

• These families hold both the longest snake (reticulated python) and the largest snake (Anaconda boa).
• Both of these familes are constrictors.
• Pythons lay eggs and generally boas have live young.
  • Pythons also have teeth on the bone at the tip of the jaw.
• These can be semi-aquatic, ground or arboreal snakes.
• These snakes constrict their prey, which suffocates the animal before digestion.
• For the most part their teeth are angled backwards to keep hold of the prey, and of you if you have had the pleasure of being bitten.

Colubridae:  Corn, Gopher, Garter, Ribbon, Green, Hog-nosed, King, Milk, Rat

• This family accounts for more than half of all snakes and generally have scales covering most of their bodies.
• Although most are harmless, some genus’ are venomous to mildly venomous.
  • For example, the hog-nosed snake is rear fanged and mildly venomous.
• For the most part they are harmless and will not bite in defense, only to kill prey.
• This does not mean if bitten you would not have a reaction to the venom.
• Other snakes, such as the milk and king snake feed on other snakes, and kings are generally resistant to venom of other snakes.
• Some of these snakes mimic other snakes, like the bull snake acting like a rattle snake and the milk or scarlet king snake looking like the venomous coral snake.
• Others in this family include the common garter and ribbon snakes that eat amphibians and fish as part of their diet.