• See General Precautions.
• Dogs should be at least 30 lbs (try a scooter if you have a smaller dog)
• This book/website is not on skills training, so if you are going to try canicross, make sure YOU can run first.
• Depending on the type of terrain, dog booties may be needed. This will protect the canines feet in cold weather preventing ice from accumulating between the pads. It will also protect their feet on rough terrain.
• Running on asphalt can be harsh on both you and your dog. The dog pulling you can put extra stress on your ankles, hips and knees. (and possibly your back if you do not have the belt attached properly) This can also wear down the pads of the dog’s feet.
• For the following sports, start your training with ONE dog if you are new to the event.
• For newbie’s, it is advisable to start with Canicross and then work up to the other sports in this section. People who have experience with mushing and skijoring may find canicross more difficult because THEY have to keep up with their dog, especially if you have a fast dog or are training with more than one.

Breed type and/or Body type: Mesomorphic (over 30 lbs) or Ectomorphic (Caution: sight hounds may bolt after prey, and may not do well with long distance running).

• In canicross, you are not simply running with your dog, you are being pulled.
• Canicross has its benefits over running with the dog by your side because you are attached to the dog in front of you by a tow line that is connected to a waist belt that you wear.
  • This leaves your hands free and prevents disruption of your body’s natural rhythm with arm swing and trunk rotation.
• If you have a dog that likes to pull, this may also prevent sore shoulders, arms and back.
• Some people also use poles which are beneficial in increasing upper body strength, and keep the muscles toned for those who participate in skijoring in the winter.
• Most humans run at a speed for about 6-10 miles per hour, where an average speed of a dog is around 25 miles per hour.
  • Jogging in humans is defined as running less than an 8 minute mile. “You are only as fast as your slowest dog”, which in Canicross means YOU (unless your participating with a small dog).

TRAINING

HUMAN
YOU must be in shape before trying to run with your dog.

• Like any sport, you may need to practice the skill by yourself before introducing your canine into the sport.
• If you already have experience with running, skip this section. If not, here are some tips.
  • Alternate walking and jogging in about 50 yard intervals.
  • Try to start out on fairly flat ground at the beginning and gradually work up to inclines.
  • Repeat these intervals 10-20 times.
  • You can gradually increase the intervals and distance.
  • If your eventual goal is to race, find out the average racing distance needed.
  • When you feel YOU can comfortably fast walk/jog at least a mile, you can introduce your canine companion to the sport.
  • Any shorter length on your part may confuse the dog with you having to stop and start again constantly. (See Canine training below)
  • Increase stride frequency and stride length to a comfortable running speed.
  • If you find the need to add weight, use a weighted vest.
    • There is controversy as to whether holding weights in your hand can throw off your natural rhythm. 

CANINE
As with you, if your dog has been a prior couch potato, don’t try to run 2 miles on the first time out.

• Besides road work (walking and jogging), if your dog likes to retrieve, this is a good way to get in shape.
  • When retrieving, it is better to make sure the object has stopped, or throw for distance before the dog gets to it.
  • This will prevent the dog from jumping up and twisting his back or landing on his hind legs.
• The next step is to find an incline, which is great for leg and core strengthening.
  • As with any exercise, start with a low incline and gradually increase.
• When pulling, a dog is using different muscles then he is used to, so again, always start out slow and give the dog plenty of recovery time between outings.

Here are some basics, but refer to the following websites for skills training: Skijor, bikejor, canicross blog 

• First of all, the dog should be sociable and not aggressive.
• It is easier to train a dog that has NOT been taught to heel, as the dog will need to pull in front of you.
• Start by having the dog get used to the harness.
  • He should eventually relate the harness with pulling and the leash with walking.
• Hook up to the dog.
  • You may want to just hold the tow line at the beginning.
• Have someone get in front of the dog with him a stay position.
  • The other person can then call the dog forward.
• Praise the dog if he stays in front and starts to pull.
• Increase the distance each time until he understands the command (see commands below).
• When you are eventually running with the dog, start with low mileage and practice on a trail with little distractions.
• Always make sure you have plenty of water for both of you, as well as a baggy for picking up waste.

COMMANDS

Make sure your dog is proficient at these commands before taking him on a trail where there will be other people or dogs.
• LINE OUT: The line should be taut with the dog in front of you. Make sure when you teach this command you are consistent.
• HIKE: Go
• GEE: Turn Right. Pull the line to the right for training. DO NOT jerk the line.
• HA or HAW: Turn Left. Pull the line to the left for training. DO NOT jerk the line.
• GEE OVER: Stay to the right.
• HAW OVER: Stay to the left.
• STRAIGHT: Keep going straight if there is more than one trail.
• ON BY: This is used to pass other runners or to avoid distractions.
• COME AROUND: U-Turn.
• WHOA: Stop. Tug on the harness or You stop.
• EASY: Slow down.

EQUIPMENT

(A great book I found on equipment and skijoring/canicross is Ski Spot Run by Haakenstad and Thompson)

• Harness: The X-back harness is preferred. It is extremely important that the harness be fitted properly and must conform to the dogs body type.
  • No moving part on the dog should hit the harness.
  • A misaligned harness can cause musculoskeletal problems, as well as chaffing in short haired dogs.
  • You can also get padding for the neck and chest.
  • If you’re not sure, find someone in your area that specializes in fitting dogs for harnesses, as this is the most important piece of equipment you will purchase. 
• Towline and Shock Cord: The towline is the connection between you and your dog.
  • The best type of towline is made from polyethylene.
  • You may also want to invest in arctic-grade if you plan on using the line for skijoring in the winter months.
  • The only difference between the line for skijoring and canicross is that the skijoring line is longer, usually about 9 1/2 feet for one dog, 11 for two dogs and 12 for 3, where the canicross is about 6-7 feet for one dog.
  • You will also need a shock cord or bungee cord to protect from hard jolts that acts as a shock absorber between dog and human.
  • If you run more than one dog get another line with a longer bungee section.
  • A small brass swivel snap attaches the line to the dog’s harness.
  • Stronger materials are stainless steel or solid bronze. (If running more than one dog, see Neck Line in Skijoring section below)
• Belt: The waist belt is worn by the human.
  • The most common belt is the 4″.
  • There are different opinions on where the belt should be in terms of center of gravity.
  • Some say wear it at the center of gravity and others say above the waist offers more “adjustment options for countering pulling forces” (Ski Spot Run, Thompson and Haakenstad, p 101)
  • There are others that say the ones that wrap your butt and pulls you at a lower center of gravity is better. Skijor, bikejor, canicross blog .
  • Most of these books and sites are concentrating on skijoring and not canicross.
  • If you don’t have a professional shop to fit you in your area, just experiment to find which better fits you.
  • A quick release or panic snap will be needed in case you need to disengage from the dog immediately.
  • Make sure the snap remains with the belt when it is released so it stays with you instead of dragging behind the dog.
  • You can also get removable leg straps that can be used if you choose to also do skijoring in the winter.
  • Once you and your dog have canicross down, you can move on to skijoring in the winter or rollerjoring, bikejoring or scootering in the other months.

Breed type and/or Body type: Mesomorphic (over 30 lbs) or Ectomorphic (caution, as sight hounds may bolt after prey, and may not do well with long distance running).

• Make sure you and your dog are proficient in canicross before adding skates.
• This sport does require that you have training in inline skating or roller skis, and that your dog knows his commands.
• This sport is more dangerous because you need to have control at a higher speed.
• You need to be able to stop immediately.

Precautions:

• See General Precautions and Precautions above in addition to following:
• Stay out of high traffic areas.
  • Try to stay on walking trails that have little pedestrian traffic as well.
• Use a helmet and protective gear.
• At the beginning, do not attach your dog to your canicross/skijoring belt.
  • This way you can let go of the lead until you are completely comfortable with you and your dog’s performance.
• This book is not on skills training, so if you are going to try rollerblading or rollerskiing make sure YOU can skate before introducing your dog into the mix.
• Do not use more than one dog for this sport.
• Practice stopping, as well as practice an emergency stop in case the situation calls for it.
• Aim for a soft place to land if you must go to the ground quickly to stop.
• Because of the speed, keep in mind there is less time to react if the situation calls for it compared to canicross.
• In rollerskiing you will need to use your belt to keep your hands free to use the ski poles, so make sure you are proficient in rollerblading with your dog first.

TRAINING

HUMAN

• This is not a lesson in rollerblading, so make sure before you start, you are proficient without your dog and can stop, turn and have control over your speed.
• Use a regular leash or hold the bungee lead before trying to attach it to the skijoring belt.
  • Once you and your companion are comfortable, you can progress to attaching the lead to the belt.
• You may want to practice with another human taking the dogs place at the beginning.
  • Although your friend may not run as fast, it will give you a feel for sudden turns, braking and slowing down before attaching the dog.
• Try practicing over several different terrains and areas without the dog first.
• Become familiar with the paths you are going to take.

CANINE

• Practice the commands that you learned in canicross above.
• A command that you may want to go over again is the “easy” command for slowing down.
  • This will be necessary on declines.
  • Say ‘Easy’ while applying the brakes at the same time to give him the signal to slow down.
• Practice this on a level area before you get to the point of going downhill.
• Make sure your dog understands the stay command before you hook yourself up.
  • You do not want to start when the dog is excited and unable to control himself, as he will start before you are ready.
• You may also want to have someone else hold the dog until you say ‘hike’.
• Keep your eye on the towline.
  • Brake when the dog slows to prevent slacking in the towline, which can tangle in the dogs legs or get under the wheels and cause you to fall.

EQUIPMENT

Harness, Towline and Belt as above in Canicross.

• Protective gear This is a must!!!
  • A helmet, wrist guards, knee guards, elbow guards and even tailbone guards are available.
• Towline: As compared to canicross, the line for rollerjoring is about 9 1/2 feet
• Tow rope handle: If you do not feel comfortable attaching your dog to your belt, try getting a tow rope handle that can be dropped in case of emergency.
  • This is advisable for the beginner or people who have unpredictable dogs.
  • The downside of this is that it does not provide proper form on your part with decreased trunk rotation and arm swing.
• Skates: Unless you are sure that you will only be skating on pavement, get off-road rollerblades or rollerskis that you can use on paths that may have dirt or gravel.
• Poles: If you are planning on skijoring during the winter months, you can use ski poles.
  • Of course, this will require that you do not have to use the tow rope handle.

Breed type and/or Body type: Mesomorphic (over 30 lbs) and breeds that can endure cold weather.

• Now that you have canicross down, let’s add skis to the mix.
• As mentioned before, know how to cross country ski by yourself before adding your dog to the line. See the website Skijor, bikejor, canicross blog  for instructions.
  Precautions:
• See General Precautions and Precautions above in addition to following:
• If you do not have an arctic type breed, or do have a short haired breed, you may need to add a ‘coat’. See Equipment below.
• As with rollerjoring, at the beginning, you may want to use a tow rope handle until you get used to skiing with your pet.
• This is not a bookwebsite on skills training, so if you are going to try skijoring make sure YOU can ski before introducing your dog into the mix.
• Start with one dog before adding more – no more than 3.
• Be very careful not to run into your dog.
• Pay attention to the surface you are skiing on and look ahead at the area:
  • Shallow snow: It may be hard to stop or slow down.
  • Areas or patches with no snow: You may stop abruptly.
  • Ice: A hazard in itself. If it has thawed and frozen over repeatedly, make sure your dog is wearing booties to prevent cuts on the pads
    of his feet.
  • Avoid areas with sharp turns.

TRAINING

HUMAN

• This is not a lesson in skijoring so make sure before you start, you are proficient without your dog.
• Practice your turns and stops ahead of time.
• Balance: Make sure you have good balance.
  • Practice going around sharp corners.
  • Make yourself an obstacle course in all types of terrain.
  • A dog can run faster than you can ski uphill, so practice inclines and declines as well. (Do all this without the dog first).
• If the dog lunges forward, assume the ski tuck position.
  • This will stabilize your back/hips to help prevent back injuries.
• You may not want to use your poles at the beginning.

CANINE

• Make sure the dog is proficient in canicross, as well as the commands.
• A command that you may want to go over again is the “easy” command for slowing down.
  • This will be necessary on inclines where your dog can run faster than you.
• Make sure your dog understands the ‘line out’ command before starting.
  • This is important to keep the line taught before starting.
• Keep the beginning sessions short.
  • Vary the run distance each day.
• If your dog is not as enthusiastic, take several days off and do something else for fun.

EQUIPMENT

Harness, Towline and Belt as above in Canicross.

• Towline: The towline for skijoring is about 9 1/2 feet for one dog, 11 feet for two dogs and 12 feet for 3.
• Tow rope handle: If you do not feel comfortable attaching your dog to your belt at the beginning, try getting a tow rope handle that can be dropped in case of emergency.
• Helmet: Use a helmet if you are going on rough terrain that has a lot of turns and trees.
• Eyewear: Protective eyewear is necessary to guard the eyes from debris kicked up from the running dogs, as well as shield them from glare off the snow.
  • Make sure they provide access to peripheral vision, as well as being shatter proof.
  • If you are skiing at night, you may need a second pair that is not tinted.
• Skies and poles: Cross country skis are preferably without metal edges that can cause injury to the dog.
• Neckline: Only needed when working two dogs side by side.
  • Connects two dogs together.
  • The collars it attaches to should be the same size as the harness you are using.
  • Make sure the collars are snug (about two finger widths) so it doesn’t pull off.
  • You can also run the dogs one in back of the other without the neckline.
• Jacket: Dress accordingly depending on the weather. This also goes for your dog.
  • If you have a short haired dog, make sure the jacket you get is waterproof/resistant and provides free movement of all joints.

Breed type and/or Body type: Mesomorphic (over 30 lbs) or Ectomorphic (Caution: sight hounds may bolt after prey, and may not do well with long distance running).

• Very simply, your dog is pulling you while you are on a bike.
• The downfall of this is that bikejoring is more exercise for your dog than you, unless you are going up a lot of hills that require you to peddle more often.
• You can also try biking on sandy or grassy surfaces that provide more resistance. See the website http://www.skijornow.com/bikejor.html for more instructions and detailed equipment needs.

Precautions:

• See General Precautions and Precautions above in addition to following:
• You may want to start by not attaching the line to the bike at the beginning.
• Hold the line – do not wrap it around your hand.
• This book/website is not on skills training, so if you are going to try bikejoring make sure YOU know how to ride a bike before introducing your dog into the mix.
• Start with one dog before adding more – no more than 3.
• Be very careful not to run into your dog.
• If you choose to do a lot of biking on asphalt, invest in some dog booties for protection.
• Decide if your dog is a front runner and can pull.
  • If not, you may need a side mount attachment. See equipment below. 

TRAINING

HUMAN

• This is not a lesson in biking so make sure before you start, you are proficient without your dog .
• Practice your turns and stops ahead of time.
  • Also make sure you find as website or book as above on the proper way to attach the towline to the bike.
• Do NOT wear a skijoring belt.
  • The towline gets connected to the base of the handlebars or Springer attachment (see equipment below and check out the website http://www.skijornow.com/bikejor.html for proper attachment of equipment)
• Practice ‘feathering’ your brakes.
• If you are biking on asphalt (not recommended for canines pads), you may need to keep a constant pace.
• In this sport YOU have to be in complete control, especially of your speed.
  • Practice this not only on straight runs, but also on downhill sharp turns.
  • Know what speed limit works for you before hooking up your dog.
• Start out with a friend pulling you instead of a dog.
  • Practice different trails, inclines, declines and feathering the brakes.
  • If you are using a Springer on the side, try seeing what it is like turning with your friend next to you in both directions.
  • If running in front, have them pull you abruptly from side to side and pull from the front.
  • In other words, try being pulled in every direction that your dog would pull you in so you can get a feel for any adjustments you will need to make when you finally have your canine attached.

CANINE

• Practice the commands and training that you learned in canicross above.
  • A command that you may want to go over again is the “easy” command for slowing down.
  • This will be necessary on declines and sharp turns.
• Keep the beginning sessions short.
  • Vary the run distance each day.
• If your dog is not as enthusiastic, take several days off and do something else for fun.

EQUIPMENT

See http://www.skijornow.com/bikejor.html for a detailed description of equipment.

• Mountain Bike: Good quality mountain bike
• Knobby tires: Good traction is needed
• Excellent brakes: It is important to go to a bike shop and get brakes that will work for the terrain where you will be biking
• Front end suspension or duel suspension
• Fenders
• Springer attachment: A Springer keeps the dog at the side of the bicycle if your dog is not a front runner.
  • A shorter lead also attaches to the Springer.
  • You will need a wider trail to ride on since the dog is beside you and not in front.
  • This may also confuse the dog if you run with your dog with him in the front and bike with him in a heel position on the side.
• Bungee towline – See Skijoring
• X Back Harness – See Canicross
• Eye protection – See Skijoring
• Helmet. 

Breed Type and/or Body Type: The great thing about dog scootering is that not only do you have a bit more control that bikejoring, but you can do this with smaller dogs.

Precautions:

• See General Precautions and Precautions above in addition to following:
• You may consider bikejoring if you plan to go up a lot of steep hills.
  • Scooters are made for a flatter surface.
• Start with one dog before adding more – no more than 2.
• Be very careful not to run into your dog.

TRAINING

HUMAN

• This is not a lesson in biking so make sure before you start, you are proficient without your dog.
• Practice your turns and stops ahead of time.
• You can help the dogs a bit more by using your foot to kick or running with the scooter so it is not all on the dog.
  • On the other hand, this can also be distracting to the dog.
  • This can also cause slack in the line when the dog is pulling.
• As mentioned in precautions, this is not a sport if you have a lot of steep inclines to go up.
  • This may require you to run with the scooter when necessary.

CANINE

• Practice the commands and training that you learned in canicross and bikejoring above.
• Keep the beginning sessions short.
  • Vary the run distance each day.
• If your dog is not as enthusiastic, take several days off and do something else for fun.

EQUIPMENT

See Bikejoring for most equipment, except scooter.   Skijor, bikejor, canicross blog 

• Scooter: Off road version with good quality brakes.
  • Weight should be approximately that of a mountain bike.
    
    

Skijoring

Ski Spot Run by Haakenstad and Thompson for lots of information on skijoring and more.

Very Well Fit – How to Start Skijoring: Dog Commands, Equipment, Safety Tips – https://www.verywellfit.com/how-to-start-skijoring-dog-commands-equipment-safety-tips-5101586

MUSH! A Beginner’s Manual of Sled Dog Training, by LaBelle, Charlene – editor for Sierra Nevada Dog Drivers, Inc.

Sled Dog Central – Introduction  to Skijoring http://www.sleddogcentral.com/skijorarticles.htm#introduction

SkiJor Now – No Longer Active

Running Dogs (blog) – Equipment needs for Skijoring, Bikejoring & Canicross http://skijorbikejorcanicross.blogspot.com/2008/05/equipment-needed-for-skijoring.html

American Kennel Club – The Best Winter Dog Sport Ever: Skijoring – https://www.akc.org/?s=skijoring

Canicross

Canicross by Mike Callahan. Previously published in Mushing Magazine November/December 2001 

North American Canicross – What is Canicross – https://nacanicross.com/

K9 of Mine – Canicross 101 – https://www.k9ofmine.com/canicross/

American Kennel Club – How to Get Started in Canicross – https://www.akc.org/expert-advice/health/canicross-goes-beyond-running-with-dogs/

Canicross USA – So, What is Canicross? https://canicrossusa.org/

Bikejoring

American Kennel Club –Bikejoring: Is This Adrenaline Inducing Sport Right For You and Your Dog?  https://www.akc.org/expert-advice/training/bikejoring-is-this-adrenaline-inducing-sport-right-for-you-and-your-dog/

Active Dog Sports – What is Bikejoring – https://activedogsports.com/category/dog-mushing/

Rollerjoring/Skatejoring

Skatejoring With Dogs – https://www.instructables.com/Skatejoring-With-Dogs/

Skatelog.com – Rollerjoring: A Ruff Way to Skate – http://www.skatelog.com/topics/dogs/all-terrain-dog.htm