• See General Precautions.
• Remember, with tracking you have to keep up with your dog, so make sure you are prepared to go the distance.
• If you are training a puppy, do not go long distances until you puppy is at least 12 months depending on the breed.
• Depending on the type of terrain, dog booties may be needed.
  • This will protect the canine’s feet in cold weather preventing ice from accumulating between the pads.
  • It will also protect their feet on rough terrain.

Breed type and/or Body type: Short Legged Terriers, such as Parsons (Jack) Russell Terrier, Cairn Terrier, Norfolk or Norwich Terrier, etc.

• Earthdog trials were set up for small short-legged terriers that were primarily bred to hunt vermin and other quarry that lives underground.
• Man made tunnels are set up for the dogs to negotiate following the scent of the rat or other quarry.
• Rats are caged and unharmed at the end of the tunnel.
• These dogs must ‘work’ the tunnel, which may mean barking, scratching, staring, pawing, digging; any active behavior.
• According to the AKC General Regulations for Earthdog Tests ,’the noncompetitive program begins with a basic introduction to den work and quarry, progressing through gradual steps to the point where the dog can demonstrate that it is willing to perform the required tasks, including seeking its quarry and working it underground’.

AMERICAN KENNEL CLUB (AKC) TRIALS:

Only a certain purebreds may participate in the AKC trials. They do not have to be intact, but have to be at least 6 months old, females not in heat, and may not be deaf/blind. Go to the AKC.org website for more info. Here is an excerpt from The AKC Earthdog section http://classic.akc.org/events/earthdog/info.cfm that shows the titles in progressing difficulty.

• Introduction to Quarry: The initial test is the Introduction to Quarry (IQ) where the dog is introduced to a 10 foot tunnel with one right angle turn and at the end is a cage of rats behind a set of bars.
  • There is a scent trail of rat scent leading into the tunnel and to the rats.
  • At this level the handler can encourage the dog into the tunnel and the judge may help get the dog working at the rats by shaking the cage or making a noise to incite the dog’s instincts.
• Junior Earthdog: The first level where a title is earned is the Junior Earthdog test where the dog may earn a Junior Earthdog title (J.E.).
  • The dog must travel a 30 foot den with at least three right angle turns in 30 seconds; work the rats at the end of the tunnel (in a cage behind bars as in IQ) for 60 seconds; and then allow the handler to remove him without injury to the dog or handler.
  • Once the dog completes these requirements twice under two different judges he will receive the title of J.E. and receive a Junior Earthdog certificate from the AKC.
• Senior Earthdog: The second level of Earthdog test is the Senior Earthdog test where the dog may earn a Senior Earthdog title (S.E.).
  • The den is 30 feet with at least three right angle turns and there are the added distractions of a false, unscented exit and an unscented bedding area with used rat bedding at the end.
  • The dog has 90 seconds to travel the tunnel length and get to the rats; must begin working the rats within 15 seconds of arriving at the end of the tunnel; and must work the rats for 90 seconds.
    • At the end of the 90 seconds the rats are removed and the dog must recall from the den to the handler within 90 seconds.
  • Once the dog completes these requirements under two different judges at three different tests, the dog will be designated a Senior Earthdog (S.E.).
• Master Earthdog: The final level of the Earthdog test is the Master Earthdog (M.E.) title.
  • The dog must actually hunt his way to the den with a bracemate 100 to 300 yards. On the way he must investigate an empty, unscented den when the handler asks him to.
  • Then both dogs must find the entrance to the den and mark it decisively so that there is no question the dog is indicating an active den.
    • The den itself is like the Senior den with the addition of two obstacles: a 6 inch diameter PVC pipe crossways in the den to simulate a root and a narrowing down to 6 inches for a distance of 18 inches.
  • The Master competitor has 90 seconds to get to his quarry; must work the rats for 90 seconds and must allow himself to be removed from the den by his handler within 15 seconds.
  • While one dog is working the other dog is staked out and must wait his turn with minimum amount of noise while his bracemate works the quarry.
  • Once a dog successfully completes all parts of the Master test four times under three different judges the dog shall be designated a Master Earthdog and may continue to compete at all three levels at Earthdog tests.

AMERICAN WORKING TERRIER ASSOCIATION (AWTA) TRIALS:
‘The AWTA awards Certificates of Gameness to terriers and Dachshunds who achieve a score of 100% in the AWTA open class.

• To qualify in the open class, a dog must be released near the trial’s 30-foot (9.1 m) earth tunnel opening, find its way into the tunnel and reach the quarry, all within 30 seconds (50% of score) and then “work” the rat continuously for a full 60 seconds (remaining 50% of score).
• Timing starts from the moment the dog is released by the handler.
• The dog may enter the tunnel and come out or walk around the tunnel, but it must get to the rat within the time allotted.
  • However, once it reaches the rat, it must remain with it for the aforementioned 60 seconds’. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Earthdog_trial (See http://www.dirt-dog.com/awta/index.cfm for more information).

TRAINING

• For the most part, your training will be done at the Club you choose.
  • The reason is, the equipment (tunnels) can be very expensive.
  • You must also get yourself a rat and take proper care of it.
  • This means finding a suitable cage that your dog cannot get to, feeding, cleaning, etc.
  • You must also keep the ‘prey’ in a place your dog cannot see, as he may just lose interest altogether.
• You can start your training with learning basic commands, esp. the recall command.

If you DO want to go through the trouble of setting up a home tunnel, here are some tips to start out.

• Boredom: Whether you are training a puppy or older dog, remember terriers get bored with repetition. Always keep it fun.
• Tunnel: Start with a straight piece of tubing or PVC pipe that your dog can fit it.
  • As he advances, you may have to construct a tunneling system that allows for turns.
• Rat: First, check out my website Lost Temple Pets Guides under small animals, for info on taking care of rodents.
  • You will need a strong cage to put at the end of the tunnel, preferably inside another wooden cage.
  • Put the rat on the ground in the cage.
  • Use a leash on the dog to introduce the rat.
  • Use a command like ‘Get the Rat’ or ‘Go’ to excite him into getting the rodent.
  • Move the cage if you must to get him to bark, scratch and aggressively go after the cage.
  • See if you can get the rats scent on a furry toy and have someone else pull it on a string through the tunnel.
    • Try to get your dog to ‘chase’ the imitation rat through the tunnel.
• Tunnel training: As above, try to get your dog to go through the tunnel, whether it be chasing the imitation rat or placing yourself at the other end coaxing him to the other side with the rat cage. Tell him to ‘Get It’ or whatever phrase you have chosen.
  • You may try using a long leash to ‘pull’ him through, but never force him.
  • If you are simply having trouble getting him to go through the tunnel, try putting his favorite toy at the other end, or make a ‘treat’ trail throughout the tunnel for him to follow to make it a pleasant experience.
  • Once he is comfortable and gets the hint, try making angles for him to go through.
• Underground: If he seems to enjoy this sport, and if you haven’t already, it is time for you to join a club and get proper training.

Breed type and/or Body type: Herding dogs breed specific to type of livestock and job.

• Whether you have a dog already that you would like to try herding with, or are looking to buy a herding dog, the first question you have to answer is what are you going to herd?
• Are you going to be herding sheep or cattle?
• Are you going to be doing this as a sport entering trials or do you have a farm that you will need a working dog for?

Precautions:

• See General Precautions and Precautions above in addition to following:
• Keep in mind that dogs can become injured, sometimes fatally from being kicked, etc, usually by herding larger stock, such as cattle.
• The working breed and show/companion breeds have differences in their personalities.
  • Although they can make good companions, if you are looking for just a companion or agility dog, do not buy a canine that was specifically bred for herding and vice versa.
•  Do not have puppies do any extensive training re: jumping or long distance until at least 12-18 months.

TYPES OF HERDING:
There are several ways dogs herd. Depending on what type of dog you have and the livestock you are herding. There are also dogs that are still a type of sheepdog that will guard the flock, but do not herd.

• Heelers: These dogs drive the cattle forward by nipping at their heels.
  • The Australian cattle dog is an example of
    a heeler.
  • Due to their short stature and ability to stay under a kicking cow, the Welsh corgis and the Swedish
    Vallhund have also been used to drive cattle.
• Headers: These dogs keep the livestock in a group by going to the head of the animal to stop or turn them.
  
  • Strong Eyed: These dogs tend to stare down the livestock and stay in a crouched position.
    • Some examples are the Border collie and the Australian Kelpies.
    • You do not want a dog that tends to ‘stick’ his stare – these dogs are OK to hold the livestock, but not good at moving them.
    • These dogs tend to work in larger areas because of their speed and drive.
  • Loose Eyed: These dogs stay in an upright position and do not keep constant eye contact.
    • These dogs may use their body language to control the livestock, as well as their bark.
    • These dogs usually work independently, such as the Australian Shepherd.
  • Versatile: There are other breeds that are more versatile in herding cattle, goats, geese, sheep, etc.
    • There are also breeds, such as the Australian Kelpie and Koolie that run along the backs of the sheep and are known to head, heel and back.

TRIALS:

• “A competitive dog sport in which herding dog breeds move animals around a field, fences, gates, or enclosures as directed by their handlers is called a sheepdog trial, herding test or stockdog trial depending on the area.
• Such events are particularly associated with hill farming areas, where sheep range widely on largely unfenced land.”

COMMANDS

• Commands may be indicated by a hand movement, whistle or voice.
• There are many other commands that are also used when working stock and in general use away from stock.
• Herding dog commands are generally taught using livestock as the modus operandi.
• Urban owners without access to livestock are able to teach basic commands through herding games.
• These are not the only commands used; there are many variations.
• In New Zealand each dog has a different set of commands to avoid confusion when more than one dog is being worked at one time.
  • COME-BYE or just bye – go to the left of the stock, or clockwise around them.
  • AWAY TO ME, or just away or ‘way – go to the right of the stock, or counterclockwise around them.
  • STAND – stop, although when said gently may also mean just to slow down.
  • WAIT – (lie) down or sit – stop.
  • STEADY – or take time – slow down.
  • CAST – gather the stock into a group. Good working dogs will cast over a large area.
  • FIND – search for stock. A good dog will hold the stock until the shepherd arrives. Some will bark when the stock have been located.
  • HOLD – keep stock where they are.
  • BARK or speak up – bark at stock. Useful when more force is needed, and usually essential for working cattle and sheep.
  • LOOK BACK – return for a missed animal.
  • IN THERE – go through a gap.
  • WALK UP, walk on or just walk – move in closer to the stock.
  • THAT’LL DO – stop working and return to handler’. Wikipedia http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Herding_dog

TRAINING:
Here are some tips, preferably BEFORE you buy that herding dog.

• Just because you have a border collie, this does not necessarily mean he is going to like to herd, or be good at it.
• Do plenty of homework ahead of time.
• Find the right trainer: Go to herding trials or visit farms that have herding dogs.
  • Ask questions and watch the way they train.
  • Go to several trainers to see their differences and similarities.
• Read: Learn all you can about herding, as well as the stock you will be herding.
• Socialization: Make sure your puppy/dog has been well socialized.
  • Bring them around livestock to get them exposed.
  • Always have your puppy/dog on a leash when around livestock.
• Obedience: Teach the basic commands of sit, stay, come, down, stop.
  • You also may want to teach your dog to bark/stop bark on command.
  • Once you find a good trainer, you can proceed by teaching your puppy other commands as above.
• When to Start: Every dog matures at a different age.
  • Some dogs will take to it naturally, and you will ‘just know’.
• YOU: You will need just as much training as the dog to know proper body positions, commands, patience and endurance.
• Don’t MESS UP:
  • The biggest mistake YOU can make is to start before YOU know what you are doing.
  • It is hard to break a bad habit once it is imbedded in the dog.

Breed type and/or Body type: Breed Specific (see example of breed in each category)

• Field trials cover many hunting events, including retrieval, flushing and pointing. In field trials, dog and handler teams compete against one another, where there is only one winner in the end.
  • This requires a higher level of training than a hunting test, where the dog is evaluated against a written standard.
• Furthermore, there are many organizations that have their own rules and definitions.
• Field trials are also very breed specific.
• I will only go over the different types of trials/breeds in this section and some of the equipment you MAY need depending on what type of activity you decide upon.
• From that point you may want to contact your nearest hunting club for more information and training.

Precautions:

See General Precautions and Precautions above in addition to following:

• It is important NOT to crate your dog directly after the event, especially if he is coming right out of the water.
  • Like any sport, your dog should be walked and dried off appropriately before being crated.
  • If you are entering more than one dog, please bring another person to hand the dog off to.
• The working breed and show/companion breeds have differences in their personalities.
  • If you are looking for a companion, do not buy spaniels that were bred as hunting dogs and vice versa

RETRIEVING: Retrievers must remember where the bird went down, retrieve the bird from either land or water back to their handler.

See breeds below or scroll down to the TABLE of Sports for an example of some of the canines involved in this sport.

• Example of Breeds: American water spaniel, Chesapeake Bay retriever, Curly-coated retriever, Flat-coated retriever, Golden retriever, Irish water spaniel, Labrador retriever, Nova Scotia duck tolling retriever, Poodle, Portuguese water dog, Spanish Water dog, etc.
• In order to work properly as a gun dog, a retriever should be trained to perform the following tasks:
  
  • Remain under Control.
  • Mark downed game.
  • Perform a Blind Retrieve.
  • Retrieve to Hand.
  • Honoring.
  • Shake on Command.
  • Remain Steady to Wing and Shot.

EQUIPMENT

• Plastic dummy used specifically for training bird dogs.
• Eventually you will need dead birds to training with.
• Whistles
• Blank pistol (hunter orange)
• Appropriate hunter orange equipment, such as vests.

FLUSHING: These dogs must first hunt or find the prey and then flush it from its hiding place for the handler to shoot or capture.

• These dogs can also be used to retrieve the game as well.
• Spaniels are usually used in this trial, but retrievers are known to do this as well.
• Example of Breeds: American cocker spaniel, English cocker spaniel, English Springer spaniel, Field spaniel, Welsh Springer spaniel. Clumber spaniels and Sussex spaniels were bred for certain terrain as well.
• The dog needs to be trained to flush the bird, sit when the bird flushes, stay steady with the gun shot, mark where the bird falls and stay until sent to retrieve the game.
• Spaniels are trained primarily to quarter in front of the hunter to flush game.
• Trained spaniels should possess the following skills:
  
  • Retrieve to Hand.
  • Soft Mouth.
  • Quarter.
  • Scenting
  • Flushing.
  • Hup. This is the traditional command to sit and stay..
  • Follow Hand Signals
  • Steady.
  • Blind Retrieve.

EQUIPMENT

• Plastic dummy used specifically for training bird dogs.
• Bird launcher to simulate a flying bird
• Whistles
• Blank pistol (hunter orange)
• Appropriate hunter orange equipment, such as vests.

POINTING: Point out the game for the handler to shoot, and retrieve the downed bird to the handler. This is done in braces or pairs. Setters and pointers are usually the chosen canine for this sport.

• Example of Breeds: English setter, German shorthaired pointer, German wirehaired pointer, Gordon setter, Irish setter, pointers, Vizslas, Weimaraner, Wirehaired Pointing Griffon.
• “Upon reaching the field, the handler often will cast or direct the dog in a wide circle.
  • Experienced dogs will search the edges of the field knowing that birds are usually found there.
  • This wide run helps to burn off the dog’s initial exuberance and may help the dog establish its bearings and form a “background” upon which game smells will be processed.
  • The dog then begins working back and forth, starting near the hunter and slowly ranging
    out.
    • The dog repeats this process as the hunters move through the field.
  • How far a handler allows the dog to range is a matter of personal
    preference.
  • When game is detected, a dog freezes, either pointing or
    crouching.
    • The pointing dog remains motionless until the hunters are in position.
  • Handlers give the command whoa, instructing the dog to remain
    still.
  • What happens next depends on the dog’s training”. Wikipedia: Gun
    Dog http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gun_dog

EQUIPMENT

• Plastic dummy used specifically for training bird dogs.
• Eventually you will need dead birds to training with.
• Whistles
• Blank pistol (hunter orange)
• Appropriate hunter orange equipment, such as vests.

BEAGLE, DACHHUND, FOXHOUND, or various HOUND FIELD TRIALS.

• These are trials that all have their own rules from single, small packs and large packs to hunt various game.
• I am not getting into the various trials, but just want to make you aware that these exist.
• If you have a breed that fits these categories, you can contact the appropriate association for more information and training.

Breed type and/or Body type: Scent hound.

• Do you have a dog that loves to follow his nose? This may be the sport for you.
• Tracking, scent work or any general ‘nose’ work all require your dog to use his sense of smell.
• This skill is used for rescue work, hunting, finding narcotics, Schutzhund training, and detecting some human illnesses.
• If you are looking to train your dog for fun, there are also tracking trials.

Trials: AKC TRACKING REGULATIONS – “The purpose of a tracking test is to demonstrate the dog’s ability to recognize and follow human scent, a skill useful in the service of mankind. Tracking, by nature, is a vigorous, noncompetitive outdoor sport. Tracking tests demonstrate the willingness and enjoyment of the dog in its work and should always represent the best in sportsmanship and camaraderie by the people involved”. AKC Tracking Regulations Handbook – http://images.akc.org/pdf/rulebooks/RU9999.pdf

TRAINING
There are many sites on tracking, all having their own ideas. Here are some different ways you can teach your canine companion.

•  In the house: Basically this is a game of hide and go seek.
  • First you need to associate a toy or food with the word. For instance, take a toy that he enjoys or a Kong filled with treats.
  • Associate the word ‘Toy’ with the object.
  • Once he has the word association, try putting the toy across the room where he can see it and say “find the toy”.
  • When he finds it, praise him.
  • Gradually put it behind some, then in another room, etc.
  • If he does well with this game, he should do OK in the field.
• Field training: Choose a field where there are not any strong scents that will confuse the dog.
  • Early morning is best in a field that has tall, damp grass.
  • There are many articles on what to use to train your dog with. For example, you could use hot dogs, toys, or articles, such as leather gloves or wallet.
    • For this scenario we will use hot dogs, but feel free to use whatever works best.
  • Also have treats handy and plenty of praise.
  • Start by walking a straight line. As the dog gets better at tracking, you can start going off the path.
  • Your dog should not be able to see you lay your track down.
  • Take the hot dog and make sure the scent gets into the grass.
    • Walk a straight line about 75 feet and repeat by making sure the scent of the hot dog stays in the grass.
    • Walk another 75 feet and put the scent of the hot dog on a toy, leather wallet or other object.
    • Repeat this one last time with another object.
  • When you return to the starting place, make sure you follow the same path.
  • It is best to start with a harness/30 foot leash if your dog does not follow commands.
  • Put your dog in the ‘down’ position and have him get the smell of the article or hot dog.
    • As in house training, tell him to ‘find it’ or ‘look for it’.
    • Point to the ground and encourage him to pick up the scent.
    • When he does praise him and encourage to follow the scent.
    • When he gets to the first scent, repeat to find the first article.
  • When he reaches the first article, try to get him to pick it up and praise him.
  • If needed, give him a treat.
    • Encourage him to the second article and praise when he completes his task.
  • Not all dogs catch on right away.
    • If he seems to be having problems, try with shorter distances or other articles.
    • As he gets better, try using leather wallets or articles with your scent on it.
  • If your dog is having trouble keeping his nose down, try using a Bottcher harness to keep him in that position.

EQUIPMENT

• Harness:  A Bottcher harness is made to keep the dogs head down.
  • If this is not a problem with your dog, there are many multi-purpose harnesses you can use.
  • Make sure the harness does not constrict movement.
• Items to Track: This could include a leather wallet or old leather gloves.
• Lead/Line: For training you may need several lengths up to 30-40 feet.
  • You will also need a standard leash.

Tracking

Acme Canine – Training A Dog To Track — A Slow And Methodical Process – https://acmecanine.com/training-a-dog-to-track-slow-and-methodical-process/

AKC Tracking Regulations Handbook – http://images.akc.org/pdf/rulebooks/RU9999.pdf

Teaching your Dog to Track by Michael Russell of Ezine Articles (No Longer Available)

Wag! – How to Train Your Dog to Track Humans –https://wagwalking.com/training/track-humans 

WikiHow.Pet – How to Teach a Dog to Track – https://www.wikihow.pet/Teach-a-Dog-to-Track

Gun Dog /Field Trials

Wikipedia: Gun Dog http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gun_dog

American Kennel Club – Retriever Field Trials – https://www.akc.org/sports/retrievers/field-trials/

(AKC) Field Trials – Canine Health Foundation – https://www.akcchf.org/canine-health/canine-athlete-performance-dogs/hunting-and-field-trials.html

Herding

What is a Herding Instinct Test? By Downriver Farm and Training Facility –  http://www.downriver.org/herdinginstinct.php

Wikipedia: Herding Dog http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Herding_dog

American Kennel Club – Herding – https://www.akc.org/sports/herding/

Earthdog / Dirtdog

AKC: Earthdog http://www.akc.org/events/earthdog/index.cfm

K9 Web – Earthdog tests: What are these trials and how to get started – https://www.k9web.com/dog-training/earthdog/

American Kennel Club – Earthdog 101 – https://www.akc.org/expert-advice/sports/earthdog-101-tap-into-your-small-terriers-or-dachshunds-heritage/

Wikipedia: Earthdog Trials – https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Earthdog_trial