• See General Precautions.
• Due to the nature of the sport, keep an eye on the jaw, mouth and neck for injuries.
• If you are training your dog, you must also be in shape physically, as well as mentally.

Breed type and/or Body type: Mesomorphic, Ectomorphic or Pituitary Dwarf. (Please see Table Below for those that excel in agility)

Precautions:
• See General Precautions and Precautions above in addition to the following:

• Make sure you warm up and cool down as appropriate.
• A nice walk prior to starting will warm up the muscles.
  • Make sure you take a short walk after you compete as well to cool down.
• If you are training a puppy, make sure they are 12-18 months old before doing any heavy work, especially jumping, depending on the
  breed.
• Never have a dog jump if they have joint problems.
• Your dog should know basic commands before trying to teach sport specific commands, such as NO, SIT, STAY and COME.
• If you were to evaluate your dog’s current level of fitness, what would you look for?
• There is a great book by Christine Zink called Peak Performances. Here are some of the things she suggests to evaluate your dog’s current level of fitness before starting an agility program.
  • What body type is the dog (endomorphic, etc).
  • Does he have appropriate front and rear angulations for the breed? You may want to check with a breeder if it is a purebred for the standard.
  • Look for any structural faults that should be paid attention to before starting a program.
  • Does he have good muscle tone or he is overweight. Check the dog’s tone and see if it is it the same bilaterally or is he favoring one side over the other.
  • Have the dog checked by a vet for any congenital or new conditions that may affect his performance or be exacerbated by an exercise program.
  • Learn to identify early signs of fatigue and know when not to push the dog. (Zink, 2004, pp. 111-112)
• As this book suggests, it is just as important that you are able to keep up with your dog.
  • In agility, you will have to run forward/backwards and make sudden changes in direction.
  • Human agility and strength training will help prevent injury in yourself as well.
• Weight: It is the taboo word, but keeping the weight down will put less stress on joints with jumping.

Agility according the AKC:

• Agility is a sport that appeals to all dog lovers – from young people to senior citizens. It has great spectator appeal. Agility is designed to demonstrate a dog’s willingness to work with its handler in a variety of situations. It is an athletic event that requires conditioning, concentration, training and teamwork. Dog and handlers negotiate an obstacle course racing against the clock.
• The AKC offers three types of agility classes. The first, Standard Class, includes contact objects such as the dog walk, the A-frame, and seesaw. Each of the contact obstacles has a “safety zone” 46
  painted on the object and the dog must place at least one paw in that area to complete the obstacle. The second is Jumpers with Weaves. It has only jumps, tunnels and weaves poles with no contact objects to slow the pace. The third is FAST, which stands for Fifteen and Send Time. This class is designed to test handler and dog teams’ strategy skill, accuracy, speed and distance handling.
• All classes offer increasing levels of difficulty to earn Novice, Open, Excellent and Master titles. After completing both an Excellent Standard title and an Excellent Jumpers title, handler and dog teams can compete for the MACH – faster than the speed of sound! (Master Agility Championship title.)
• A trial is a competition. Clubs hold practice matches and then apply to be licensed to hold official trials. At a licensed trial, handlers and dogs can earn scores toward agility titles.
• AKC agility is available to every registerable breed. From tiny Yorkshire Terriers to giant Irish Wolfhounds, the dogs run the same course with adjustments in the expected time and jump height.
• The classes are divided by jump heights in order to make the competition equal between the different sizes of dogs. AKC: Agility 

TRAINING

As this is not a book/website on skills training, please go to one of the many agility clubs in your area. Here are a couple of things to keep in mind when training

• As previously mentions, if you are training a puppy, you can start to teach balance on a stability ball or rocker board at a young age.
  • Try putting some PCV pipes on the ground and guide him over to teach front and hind end awareness.
  • Do NOT have them start jumping or running up steep obstacles until they are mature.
• Ask if you can bring your dog to the agility facility with no one there first to introduce him to the equipment.
  • If he is hesitant to get near the equipment, bring him a few more times – use a leash if necessary to bring him to each piece and have him walk over the frames and use the teeter without any distractions.
• Once he is comfortable with the area, bring him to a few classes to see how he responds with other dogs around.
• Some dogs will be timid, while others see this as simply a place to play.
• Agility should always be fun for both you and your dog, but you also want to make sure your dog knows the ‘etiquette’ rules when entering the agility facility.
  • Be respectful of other dogs – some dogs do not like you to ‘invade their space’.
  • Do not assume all other trainers use treats – keep a dog pouch on your belt and pick up after any treats that may fall during training.
  • Keep your dog on a leash until it is your turn to ‘run’.
  • If your dog ‘fears’ an obstacle, do not make a big deal out of it (positive or negative). You obviously do not want to yell at the dog for fearing it, but at the same time do not baby him and show positive reinforcement to his fear.
    • For example, a small dog (or large) may not want to go through the chute. Try creative techniques like pulling a treat through the other end on a string while lifting the chute slightly so he can see that there is a ‘light’ at the end of the tunnel.
• As with all sports, it is easier to get all the facts ahead of time and teach your dog correctly the first time, as it is difficult to undo bad habits.

EQUIPMENT or Obstacles: (Description by Wikipedia: Dog Agility)

• A-Frame
Two broad ramps, usually about 3 feet (0.91 m) wide by 8 to 9 feet (2.7 m) long, hinged together and raised so that the hinged connection is between five and six-and-a-quarter feet above the ground (depending on the organization), roughly forming an A shape.
• Dogwalk
Three 8 to 12 ft (2.4 to 3.7 m) planks, 9 to 12 inches (23 to 30 cm) wide, connected at the ends. The centre plank is raised to about 4 feet (1.2 m) above the ground, so that the two end planks form ramps leading up to and down from the center plank. This obstacle also has contact zones. Most sanctioning organizations also require slats on the dog walk ramps.
• Teeter
A 10-to-12-foot (3.0 to 3.7 m) plank pivoting on a fulcrum, much like a child’s seesaw.
• Jump (or hurdle)
Two uprights supporting a horizontal bar over which the dog jumps.
• Double and triple jump (or spread jump)
Two uprights supporting two or three horizontal bars spread forward or back from each other.
• Panel jump
Instead of horizontal bars, the jump is a solid panel from the ground up to the jump height, constructed of several short panels that can be removed to adjust the height for different dog heights.
• Broad jump (or long jump)
A set of four or five slightly raised platforms that form a broad area over which the dog must jump without setting their feet on any of the platforms
• Tire jump
A torus shape roughly the size of a tire, suspended in a frame.
• Open Tunnel
A vinyl tube, 10 to 20 feet (3.0 to 6.1 m) long and about 2 feet (61 cm) in diameter, through which the dog runs.
• Closed Tunnel or chute
A barrel-like cylinder with a tube of fabric attached around one end. The fabric extends about 8 to 12 feet (2.4 to 3.7 m) and lies closed until the dog runs into the open end of the chute and pushes his way out through the fabric tube.
• Weave Poles
Similar to a slalom, this is a series of 5 to 12 upright poles, each about 3 feet (0.91 m) tall and spaced about 20 inches (51 cm) apart, through which the dog weaves.
• Table
An elevated square platform about 3-foot-by-3-foot (1-meter-by-1-meter) square onto which the dog must jump and pause, either sitting or in a down position, for a designated period of time which is counted out by the judge, usually about 5 seconds. 

Breed type and/or Body type: Sight hounds – see list below for dogs that are allowed to participate.

Precautions:
See General Precautions and Precautions above in addition to following:

• If you are training a puppy, make sure they are 12 months old and their growth plates have closed before doing any serious turns.
• If your canine companion is ‘out of shape’, please start slow.
  • Slowly build up his endurance by having him run in a ‘safe’ field.
• Running on asphalt can be harsh on both you and your dog.
  • Try dog booties during practice if needed.
• Start your training with ONE dog until he gets understands, then can add another if you want.

Do you have a sight hound that loves to run? This may be for you. In lure coursing, a dog chases an artificial lure across a field that is approximately 600-1000 yards long. It may have jumps depending on the association sponsoring the event, but all have turns to simulate chasing a hare, etc.

ORGANIZATIONS

AMERICAN KENNEL CLUB (AKC)
Lure coursing is an event for all Sighthounds : Afghan Hounds, Basenjis, Borzois, Greyhounds, Ibizan Hounds, Irish Wolfhounds, Italian Greyhounds, Pharaoh Hounds, Rhodesian Ridgebacks, Salukis, Scottish Deerhounds, and Whippets are eligible.

• The AKC offers this program that the dogs and owners love so well, to test the dogs basic coursing instinct or hunting by sight ability.
• The dogs chase an artificial lure, in an open field and are judged by two judges, on the dogs overall ability, speed, endurance, agility, and how well they follow the lure.
• The dogs can earn titles, such as Junior Courser (JC), Senior Courser (SC), and Master Courser (MC).
  • They can also obtain a Field Championship (FC) and the title of Lure Courser Excellent (LCX).
• The upside of this event is the dogs are kept in such good healthy shape, by doing something that comes naturally and that they really like to do.
• Dogs must be one year old and any dog with a breed disqualification may not participate. AKC: Lure coursing 
• Must be one year or older, females not in heat, and of an eligible breed (see breeds below). Can be spayed or neutered.
• TESTS:
  
  • Junior Courser (JC): Dogs run by themselves 600 yards with four turns.
    • Must be done under two different judges.
  • Senior Courser (SC): Must have JC title, run with at least one other dog, run four AKC tests under two different judges.
  • Master Courser: 25 qualifying scores in the Open, Open Veteran or Specials Stake and have a Senior Courser Title.

In AKC trials hounds are judged for overall ability (10), follow (10), speed (10), agility (10), and endurance (10) for a maximum score of 50 points. 

• See  Eligible AKC breeds.  for stock breeds and other rules.

AMERICAN SIGHTHOUND FIELD ASSOCIATION (ASFA)

• A dog must be Certified in order to compete in the Open category of the breed.
  • To certify, a dog must run clean (not interfere with the other hound and pursue the lure) with another dog of similar running style and be certified by a qualified ASFA judge.
  • Dogs used for certification do not have to be certified themselves, nor do they have to be a sight hound, and judges can certify two or three hounds at the same time’. Wikipedia: Lure Coursing 

TRIALS:

• Field Championship (FCh): Open hound receives 100 title points plus either two first placements or one first and two second placements.
• Lure Courser of Merit (LCM): Hound earns 300 points and four first placements.
  • Each subsequent LCM is earned in the same way.
• Follow (15), Enthusiasm (15), Agility (25), Speed (25), Endurance (20)
• Normally run in trios with pink, yellow and blue blankets to identify.
• Eligible AKC breeds.
• Eligible Breeds – See AKC above.
• ASFA also accepts participation from the follow breeds:
  
  •  Deerhounds, Sloughis, Chart Polski, Cirneco dell’Etna, Galgo Espanol, Magyar Agar, Peruvian Inca Orchid, Portuguese Podengo (3 varieties that are to be run separately), Silken Windhound

TRAINING

This is one sport where either you have it or you don’t. Most sight hounds take naturally to this sport.

• As with all sports, make sure your hound knows his basic commands, and has good recall.
  • This is important to call your dog after the race.
• Test his instincts by tying a piece of cloth, rabbit fur or plastic bag to the end of a string and see if your dog chases it.
  • If she does, you are good to go.
  • If not, try a squeaky toy or treat and have her chase it.
  • Let her catch it at the end to keep her interest.
• Bring your puppy at about 5 months old to the test field and see if they will let you run a practice course after the race.
  • Only do this on a straight run in the beginning.
  • After your dog is old enough, you can start practicing turns.
• Practice on different terrains so your dog can adjust accordingly to the test fields.

According to the Hawaii Lure Coursing Club (No longer exists) there are several categories that your dog may fall into:

• Coursers: Born to chase a lure.
• Short Attention Span: These dogs will chase for awhile and then lost interest or come back to mom or dad.
• Hunters: Hunting dogs that are very scent driven will get excited, but when they realize that the lure is a bag, will give up.
• String biters: These dogs will get frustrated when they can’t catch the lure and will start biting at the string.
• Pulley biters: They get excited at the whirring of the pulleys and abandon the course to attack the pulleys.
• There are other dogs that become ‘lure wise’ where they may try to cheat by cutting off the lure instead of following.

EQUIPMENT

• Lead Slip lead to release the dog at the start line. connection between you and your dog.
• Lure Plastic bag, fur or piece of cloth on a string for practice.
• Blankets: In ASFA Yellow, Pink and Blue blankets are used to identify each dog.

Breed type and/or Body type: Mesomorphic or Pituitary Dwarf

Precautions:

See General Precautions and Precautions above in addition to following:

• Pushing on the box can put a lot of stress on the dog’s wrist, especially in
  smaller dogs that need to put more pressure.
• Dogs usually turn in one direction, so it is important that you practice with your dog doing figure eights for example in the opposite direction.
  • For example, if your dog always turns left, he can have cervical problems and tightened muscles on that side.
• TMJ (Jaw) problems from grasping the ball with his mouth.
• Other problems that can arise from this sport are problems with the lower back, hock and iliopsoas.

Flyball is a sport that incorporates a team of dogs instead of working individually.

• This is a sport that requires focus on your dog’s part and is truly a team sport.
• It is basically a relay race in which dogs run over hurdles about 10 feet apart for a total of 51 feet to get a tennis ball that is released from a box and return it to the start.
  • At this point another dog takes over for a total of 4 dogs on each team.
• Any dog can participate, although you will see many border collies and terriers.
• As the jumps are measured 4 inches below the withers of the smallest dog, it is usually wise to have a small dog as a part of the team.
• In order to get the tennis ball, the dog must press a spring loaded pad that may be difficult for some small dogs, which may need to jump their whole body onto the board.
• Each dog must also cross the start line before the other dog can start.
  • Usually two similarly timed teams will compete at a time.
• There are two main organizations that include the original North American Flyball Association (NAFA) and a newer one called United Flyball League International (U-FLI).
• Competitions are usually hosted by local flyball clubs.

TRAINING:
Here are some suggestions as to how to start training your dog. As always, this is not a book/website  on skills training, so contact your local club for more information.

• Have one person holding onto the dog, facing the opposite direction.
  • The owner or handler should run in the other direction towards the box while he is released and allowed to chase him.
• Now put one hurdle in between and repeat as above.
  • If the dog is reluctant, try having the first person put him on a leash and run beside him to coax him over the hurdle the first few times.
  • Praise the dog every time he reaches the handler.
• Gradually add more hurdles until the correct number of hurdles is consistently jumped.
  • This may take several hours, days or weeks for the dog to get to this point.
• Once he has this down and is consistently getting to the box, try reversing this action.
• If needed, put a guard or some type of fencing on either side to keep the dog from going off track.
• Now try putting the ball on the ground for the dog to grab and bring back.
  • You may need a person on one side and you on the other to keep this ‘game’ going back and forth.
• When you add the Flyball box into the mix, let your dog see that you are putting the ball in the box.
  • When he pushing on the box, it will naturally release.
  • Again, this is not going to happen in one day, so don’t give up.
  • There may be many other training methods out there for teaching you and your dog, so read up, go on websites and talk to your local Flyball club.

EQUIPMENT

• Jumps – Jumps should be measured 5 inches below the smallest dog’s withers (on your team).
• Flyball Box
• Tennis Balls – It is better to practice with the size ball you will be using in competition.

Breed type and/or Body type: Mesomorphic.

Precautions:

• See Precautions above, and with agility.
• 60-70% of the dog’s weight on the front legs.
  • Because dog’s are built to put the weight on the front legs when landing, it is important to throw ‘low’ as much as possible to avoid putting stress on the back legs.
  • Teach your dog to land ‘flat’ and not to have him twist.
• This is one of the those sports where YOU need to pay close attention to YOUR body mechanics.
  • It is important that you have a strong ‘core’ before trying advanced moves, like having a dog jump on your back.
• This book/website is not on skills training, so make sure You know how to throw a disc or ‘Frisbee’ before having your dog try to catch it.
• The best disc dogs will be of a lean build about 30-50 lbs with strong retrieval and tracking skills.
• Do NOT throw the disc directly at the dog.
• As above, make sure you dog is at least 14-15 month old, depending on the breed, before having him do any jumping.
• Put the discs away so the dog knows that they are only used for this particular game.
• In disc dog (or Frisbee, registered name of a Mattel product), a human thrower controls the disc for the dog to catch.
• The two most popular events are Catch and Retrieve (or Toss and Fetch) and Freestyle.

EVENTS

• Toss and Fetch: Contestants have 60 seconds to make as many throws as possible on a field marked with increasingly longer distances.
  • One disc is thrown and dogs get points for catching the disc depending on distance and catching in mid air.
• Freestyle: Teams are judged subjectively based on degree of difficulty, showmanship, and athleticism.
  • Events can include skateboard, freestyle hackysack and snowboard halfpipe.

TRAINING:
As this is not a book/website on skills training, please go to one of the many disc dog clubs in your area. Here are a couple of things to keep in mind when training.

• First, get the dog acquainted with the disc.
  • He needs to see it as nonthreatening.
  • You can even use it as a feeding dish in the beginning.
• Crouching at his level, move the disc around to get his attention.
  • You can then try rolling it on the ground to see if he will go after it.
  • Praise him if he goes after the disc.
• Move the disc and encourage him to now take the take out of your hand.
• Once he has the concept, try throwing the disc in front of him and see if he goes after it.
  • If he does, try increasing the distance.
  • Now encourage him to catch it in midair, making sure you always throw low.
• Once he has throwing down, try having him retrieve and bring back to you.
  • You can use a long 30′ tracking lead to encourage bringing it back.
  • If your dog is already trained to come, you can easily encourage him to bring the disc back.
  • ONLY have him come back WITH the disc. Y
  • ou may want to find another command associated with the disc.
• You should also teach your dog the ‘leave it’ or ‘drop it’ command to have him release the disc.
• Go to your local disc dog club to learn more advanced moves for Freestyle. 

EQUIPMENT

Great list of equipment found on US Disc Dog Nationals 

• Disc: Soft, light, thin material. Use discs that are made for canines.
  • Other materials may be brittle and break with the dog possible ingesting.
  • Sandpaper may be used to file down rough edges.
  • Here are some examples listed on US Disc Dog Nationals.
    • Floppy Disc: A cloth/nylon disc with a rubber outer ring.
      • Nice because they float!
      • These discs are very flexible, and some tricks that require a rigid disc are difficult to perfrom with them
    • Nylabone: These are closer to ‘regulation’ than Floppy Discs, and are probably just as safe.
      • Be aware that there are some version of the Nylabone disc that are harder than others.
      • Make sure you get the flexible, rubbery type.
      • Note that there is a Gumabone model with a bone shape extending out of the top of the disc.
      • While safe and easy for dogs to pick up, these discs fly like bricks.
    • Frisbee: Fastback This is the disc of choice for most Frisbee dog enthusiasts.
      • The Fastback Frisbee disc is a 107 gram disc made out of a soft PVC type plastic that a person can actually mar with a fingernail quite easily.
      • They don’t last as long as the harder types you can find in pet stores, but that means they are less damaging to the dog’s teeth.
      • The lightness of the Fastback allows it to remain aloft longer than most discs, and therefore give its canine pursuer more time to catch it.
    • Aerobie Aerobie discs come in three flavors:
      • The Aerobie Superdisc, which is made from a transparent plastic with a soft rubber rim. This disc will fly a long ways, and is light enough and soft enough to be considered a good doggie disc;
      • The Aerobie Sprint flying ring, made from a hard plastic coated with a softer rubber. While this ring can be used with dogs also, its low profile makes it easy to put a lot of velocity behind it, so use it for short tosses or long distance throws, being careful to not throw it directly at your dog;
      • The Aerobie Jelly disc is a flexible disc that is great for puppies or folks concerned about tooth wear and damage. This disc is a little more rigid than the Floppy Disc, so tricks like butterflys are a bit easier to perform.
    •  Other discs: Any other discs used should be soft, have no protrusions, and should not be much heavier than 110 grams. In other words, the hard, generic ‘doggie discs’ one can sometimes find in pet stores or be given as promotional items should be avoided, as should 185 gram freestyle discs and especially golf discs”. US Disc Dog Nationals 
  • Protective Gear (for you if dog is vaulting off your body):
    • Neoprene diving vest for the body;
    • Thigh wrap for the legs;
    • Waist wrap.
    • Safety goggles.
  • Cones and Measuring Tape. To mark off distances.

Breed type and/or Body type: Any breed can participate, but mainly created for herding dogs.

• This is a dog sport that was started in Germany and hit the mainstream as a
  sanctioned competition in 2008.
• The purpose of the game is to drive 8 45-
  75 cm exercise balls into a soccer sized goal using herding and obedience
  commands.
• The off-leash dog must follow the handlers commands through
  whistles, verbal signals and/or hand signals to get the balls in into the goal
  within 10-15 minutes depending on the rules.
• This is a great game that promotes teamwork and problem solving skills, as the handler must direct the dog to push the ball with either his nose or shoulder in the order directed by ball size or color.
• According to the American Treibball Association (ATA) this is a great sport for dogs that are shy, have impulse control, love to herd or are energetic.

TRAINING:
This book/website is not on skills training, but here are a few things your dog should be able to do.

• Basic commands, such as sit, down, stay (for at least 5 seconds) and heel.
• Target – he must be able to touch the ball with his nose and/or shoulder to drive the ball.
• Learn commands off lead.

EQUIPMENT

• Eight exercise balls – 45-75 cm depending on size of dog.
• Soccer goal or equivalent
• 20 ft lead for distance work.

The advantages of swimming are:

• On a regular basis, swimming can help build the endurance, muscle strength, flexibility, range of motion in joints and cardiovascular fitness.
• This is a great sport for all fitness levels.
• This can help in post surgery to avoid muscle atrophy and weakness.
• Swimming is also good for people and pets that cannot do weight bearing activities – it provides unloading on painful joints, and early weight bearing.
• Swimming does not put the strain on connective tissues that running, aerobics and some weight-training routines do.
• Hydrotherapy on an underwater treadmill helps the canine with limb extension, where swimming does more to help flexion.

The advantages of walking:

• Whether you live in the city or country, there is usually a place that you can walk.
• Improves cardiovascular fitness.
• Walking helps with weight loss.
• Walking with your dog helps to build up your endurance, as most dogs will be more than happy to walk as far as you can tolerate.
• Walking helps increase bone density.
• It is a great way to burn off energy for your dog. A tired dog is a happy dog.
• Change of scenery for both you and your dog.
  • Despite having a ‘big’ back yard or having a small dog in an apartment, most dogs get tired of looking at the same four walls.
  • Walking your dog enhances their senses, helps them socially, and best of all gives them quality time with you.
  • 30+ minutes a day also helps decrease depression in humans. 

Zink, C and Daniels, J (2005). Jumping from A to Z.

Zink, C (2004). Peak Performance: Coaching the Canine Athlete.

Lure Coursing

Wikipedia – Lure Coursing http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lure_coursing

American Sighthound Field Association – The Sport of Lure Coursing – http://asfa.org/coursing.htm

American Kennel Club – Lure Coursing –  https://www.akc.org/sports/coursing/lure-coursing/

Irish Wolfhound Club of America – Coursing/Racing Overview – https://www.iwclubofamerica.org/coursing-racing-faq

Agility

American Kennel Club – Agility: Get Started – https://www.akc.org/sports/agility/getting-started/

Spruce Pets – How to Train Your Dog in Agility Sports – https://www.thesprucepets.com/agility-training-for-dogs-1118557

Wikipedia – Dog Agility  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dog_agility

Flyball

American Kennel Club – Flyball – https://www.akc.org/sports/title-recognition-program/flyball/

Daily Paws – Flyball: A Unique Team Sport to Strengthen Your Bond With Your Pup – https://www.dailypaws.com/dogs-puppies/dog-training/agility-competitive/flyball

Wikipedia – Flyball –  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flyball

Disc Dog

American Kennel Club – Disc Dog – https://www.akc.org/sports/title-recognition-program/disc-dog/

Wikipedia – Disc Dog –  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Disc_dog

US Disc Dog Nationals – Rules – https://usddn.com/official-rules/

HyperFlite – https://hyperflite.com/disc-dogs-the-complete-guide/

Treibball

American Kennel Club – Treibball—Not Just for Herding Breeds – https://www.akc.org/expert-advice/sports/treibball-this-sport-isnt-just-for-herding-breeds/

Karen Prior Clicker Training – Treibball: Give it a Try! –  http://www.clickertraining.com/node/3287

National Association of Treibball Enthusiasts – What is Treibball? – https://www.nationaltreibball.com/